Dust & Sand

Parents in Togo

2010-01-08T10:29:00.002Z

Last night Ann and I saw off our collective parents (my parents and in-laws), who spent two weeks with us in Togo, eating fufu, pate, and every animal meat possible, as well as drinking tchouk and sodabe. My Dad killed a goat on New Year's Day with my father-in-law overseeing the process. We walked around the village, ate at friends' houses, went to market, rode motorcycles, drank cold cokes in the shade, took bushtaxis, went to the beach... So much stuff in such a short time that it is hard to keep straight. They all were good sports about all the hardships and close quarters in village, as well as the endless amounts of fufu! We're looking forward to seeing the array of photos they took.

Ann and I are resting for the day in Lome, before heading back to village tomorrow to rescue our dog and catch up with our friends in village at market on Sunday. Many thanks to Cecily and John, Jean, and Brian and Miriah for the amazing care packages!

15 Months Down...

2009-12-01T14:53:00.005Z

Well we're back in Lome helping the newest set of Volunteers for Peace Corps Togo get situated and make essential purchases before they head off to their respective villages. On Thursday evening they will be "swearing in" at the U.S. Ambassador's residence in Lome, followed by speeches in local language as well as the requisite cocktails and hors d'oeuvres. Ann and I even got new outfits for the occasion (pics to follow).

Work at site is moving along with maps of Togo, Africa, and the World being painted at the C.E.G. (middle school) with the help of the science club there and several teachers. The girls garden is blooming with onions, okra, tomatoes, cabbage, watermelon, hot peppers, and several local leafy plants used for sauce ingredients. Ann is working her tail off on a peer educator training for middle school students and humoring me as I struggle to get my cereal bank (for corn) up and running.

But most exciting is that L'Harmattan with all of its dust, wind, and cool nights has arrived to dry out the mold in the latrine, rush people to finish up their harvests and start drinking beer (its celebratory funeral season...its complicated) and relax from field work for a few weeks. The change in the weather means that my parents and Ann's parents will be arriving for their much anticipated visit to Togo in twenty odd days... That speaks for itself.

Congrats go out to my brother Jon on his new job. Thanks once again to those who sent care packages, we cannot thank you enough for the thought, money, and energy you put into each package! Well off to the beach for a cold one and then its off to village once more to rescue our dog and get back into the madness of multiple projects.

A Night Out...

2009-11-07T13:40:00.002Z

Ann and I have come to Kara to meet up with other PCVs and to welcome the new volunteers to our region with good street food and cold drinks. So poor Asher is up at Pierre and Rachel's house running around like crazy with their puppy, sneaking bites of the kids' food and overall suffering while we are in Kara for the night. We will be heading back to village tomorrow for market day. My community garden project now has 20 participating households, 8 girls are hard at work in my girls' scholastic garden, and Ann and I have just undertaken a World Map project with the middle school (look for pics soon).

We are off to Lomé in a few weeks to finish up training with the new volunteers, see them swear in as PCVs and get reservations in line for the big parents' visit at the end of December. I hope to post a bunch of pictures, etc. then.

Thanks to everyone for their love, letters, packages, prayers, and phone calls. I hope someone saved me a Reese Peanut Butter Cup from Halloween!

One Year in Togo

2009-10-04T11:11:00.004Z

On September 19, our training group (those who are still here), passed the milestone of one year in Togo. It is a bit surreal to reflect upon the fact that by the end of my time in Togo I will have spent half of the last decade living and working for Peace Corps in sub-Saharan francophone west Africa. Ann, Asher and I are doing well, with Ann and I gearing up for what looks like a busy fall of projects and trainings before our parents (yes hers and mine at the same time!) come visit us in late December.

Training and Garden Projects

2009-10-04T11:08:00.002Z

Ann and I are in Lome after spending week with the new Peace Corps Trainees for Natural Resource Management and Girls Education and Empowerment. There are over 30 of them, and they were a lot of fun to work with. We assisted the Peace Corps Technical Trainers in formal classes (I helped teach classes on Gardening, Urban Gardening, Agroforestry, Composting, and Tree Nursery Management). We also offered volunteer insight on a variety of other session (health, cross culture), but most importantly we just spent time with them, shared our experiences, answered a billion questions about Togo/Peace Corps, and we in turn got a recharge of enthusiasm for Peace Corps service from the trainees.

In a related note, my girls garden is just getting off the ground with help of two of our friends; John who teaches English at the C.E.G. and Kolou, who works at CAP-EJR. The cabbage, tomato, and onion seed has been purchased, as well as a the metal fencing. Hopefully this week I will be able to purchase the hot pepper seed and put up the fence in the garden. My grain bank project is also moving along, the storage palettes in the CAP-EJR warehouse should have been built this week while I was at training. Last but not least, my community gardening project now has 5 participants, with other individuals promising to sign up for seed and micro credit accounts in the next couple of weeks. Keeping fingers crossed and will keep you posted.

Thanks Shane and Debbie!

2009-10-04T11:01:00.003Z

Our friends Shane and Debbie, who are due to get married this month (good luck!!!!), were so kind as to send us a care package that happened to contain some backpacking instant meals that made for a nice hot meal on a rainy evening a few weeks back. I can still taste the veggie lasagna.

Life is hard if...

2009-10-04T10:55:00.003Z

... you are our dog Asher and you have just spent hours roaming the fields of Pessare searching for glorious smells to roll in, only to return home to people that claim to "love" you and are forced into the latrine to be scrubbed, shampooed, rinsed, and toweled off before you get to eat your afternoon meal.
Since Ann and I have been away from village helping the new group of Peace Corps trainees get settled in their training villages, Asher has been left with friends in village and I am sure he has been rolling in everything and will need yet another bath upon our return this week.

Fly Fishing Secret Spot

2009-10-04T10:49:00.002Z

Every so often in Togo you have a moment of "whoa" which allows you to sit back and appreciate the overwelming beauty of rural Africa. The picture is a off a really great fishing spot that is just 2km from our house and it calls out to the inner fly fisherman. I bet my uncles and father would agree.

Training of Trainers

2009-09-06T16:34:00.003Z

Well Ann and I are back in Kara after another stint in village, en route to Tsevie where we, along with eight other Peace Corps Volunteers will be assisting with the planning process for the new Natural Resource Management (NRM)/Girls Empowerment and Education (GEE) training class, set to begin in a few weeks. As much as we hate to leave our Asher at his second home (Pierre and Rachel's house), getting out of the village will be a nice change of pace. The rains have begun to slacken off, reducing in frequency but increasing in intensity... harvest of yams and corn has begun...and all the roads to our village have been washed out, making only accessible by motorcycle or on foot (just to keep things interesting).
I have begun to get three major projects off the group: grain bank for corn, a gardening campaign, and a teacher training for all the teachers in Pessaré (5 elementary schools, 1 middle school), I will definately keep you posted. Its hard to believe we have been here for a year, but at the same time feel we have come a long, long, long way.

Please know that we love and miss you all. Please stay in touch and I will try to post again soon,... with plans for a little vacation. Beach anyone?!

Hello Sarah and Brad

2009-08-11T16:39:00.002Z

Greetings from Kara... Ann and I are enjoying a transition day on our way to Lomé to pick her sister Sarah and her boyfriend Brad who will be gracing us with their presence for a whirlwind visit to lovely Pessaré. As my wife has mentioned on her blog, the farming activities of the last couple weeks have rendered our village a ghost town of sorts, but as the harvest of corn, sorghum, millet, rice, yams, peanuts, beans, and sweet potatos creeps closer, I hope to have a few major projects off the ground and running: grain storage bank, girls garden, teacher training, etc. I will be sure to post things as they evolve.

Asher is getting bigger and bigger, taking up more than his share of the bed and couch! As soon as I move or get up, he immediately takes my spot... yeah. We got to catch up with our friend Karen who is a volunteer in a village 50km north of us, we haven't seen her since March, so it was great to see her. On a bit of a sadder note, we just lost one of our nearest neighbors; Rayan, who is returning to the United States for health reasons. He will be missed.

Thanks to all those who have written or sent emails, packages or called on the phone, you all make life here a little easier. Be on the lookout for more updates soon.

Looking Swanky at Coco Beach

2009-07-17T14:59:00.003Z

As I already mentioned, Ann & I enjoyed a breather from our work in Pessare by visiting Coco Beach just outside of Lome with Brian and Miriah...

Go Bruins!!!

2009-07-17T13:06:00.001Z

Thanks Mom and Dad for the new shirt!

Brian & Miriah Visit Togo

2009-07-17T12:03:00.003Z

Our friends Brian and Miriah came across the big pond to visit us in Pessare. We had a great time showing them around the village, Kara, and as a treat, we spent two days at Coco Beach before seeing them off to the airport. They took tons of pictures that they will hopefully share with you all very soon. Thank you Brian and Miriah for a great time and being brave enough to explore where we live and work... Next up Sarah and Brad, followed by Moms and Dads.

Farm to Market

2009-06-25T11:39:00.005Z

Peace Corps Togo publishes a technical journal called Farm to Market that comes out four times a year and includes contributions from PCVs, Peace Corps staff, and Togolese citizens working to develop agribusiness in Togo. The publication is shared within Peace Corps West Africa (Mauritania, Gambia, Senegal, Mali, Guinea, Liberia, Ghana, Benin, Togo, Burkina Faso, Niger, Cameroon) as well as with other interested parties. Here are my two most recent articles:

1.) Peanut Butter and Corn on the Cob: Companion Planting for Increased Yields

As qualified eaters and constant samplers of the finest Togolese dishes, PCVs are often removed from reflecting on the source of the peanuts used in the amazing sauce that covered their fufu last night or the endless bowl of pate served by a neighbor for lunch. Long story short, agricultural production affects everyone quite simply because everyone wants to eat!

In recent months, the per bowl prices of corn and peanuts have skyrocketed for various reasons including but not limited to increased scarcity and lower production levels. But as corn and peanuts are several staples in the Togolese (and PCV) diet, one must take this matter quite seriously. Quite ironically, improving and encouraging the production of both corn and peanuts requires very little effort using absolutely no chemical inputs or imported techniques.

Organic farmers worldwide make use of a technique known as companion planting in order to compete in a marketplace filled with chemically fertilized and genetically modified food stuffs. Simply, each staple product (in this case corn) is paired with a complimentary plant (in this case peanuts) to offset nutrient loss in the soil during food production.

How does that translate to food security in Togo? When corn and peanuts are planted systematically together, the roots of the peanut plants will replace the nutrients consumed by the corn throughout the growing season. In addition, once both the corn and peanut plants have been separated, the peanuts create an effective ground cover between the rows of corn, reducing weeding and soil erosion from wind and rainwater runoff.

Technical Details:
· Plant corn and peanuts in alternating rows 40 cm apart
· There should be very little mounding (if possible) to allow for effective ground cover by the peanut plants.
· Use traditional spacing (30 – 40 cm) between each plant in the row (varies depending on soil conditions)
· Plant both crops at the same time or within days of each other

I currently have two ½ hectare demonstration fields underway in my village (Pessare/Confess) using 4 month cycle corn and peanuts. As the plants develop, I plan to organize “open field” days to invite neighboring farmers to compare the progress of the demonstration fields with adjoining fields. My counterpart and I will discuss how little/much weeding was done and at the end of the season, give the entire harvest to the landowner as way of getting him to continue the practice on his own next year.

2.)Donkey Power!

The seasonal dilemma of hand cultivation (and its subsequent constraints on production levels) in agriculture production is at its core one of the principle factors that contribute to food scarcity in Africa. While subsistence agriculture in itself is not detrimental to food security, when it is coupled with a high population growth rate, limited amounts of arable land and diminishing yields, hand cultivation then places much of Africa at the very brink of success and/or failure.

The concept of animal traction or more specifically oxen-powered plows is not a new or unique concept for large portions of the continent. However in the context of Togo, the use of cattle for agricultural purposes is not yet commonplace for both financial and cultural reasons.

First, the outlay of capital that must be undertaken by local farmers just to obtain the necessary materials is daunting: 2 oxen at 100,000 – 150,000 CFA each, plow and yoke, chain, etc. at 200,000 CFA. This does not even take into account the necessary vaccines, food, training, etc. Second, the availability of the necessary materials may render the process (transport, communication, etc) too difficult for the average Togolese farmer.

In addition to the financial outlay, there may or may not be cultural stigmas attached to the use of cattle by certain members/groups within a population (i.e. women) or the sheer weight of the oxen powered equipment may prohibit others.

Enter the Donkey:

Donkeys, though not as physically powerful or as quick as oxen, do offer many advantages for their use in agricultural productivity.
Donkeys weigh less and are much easier to train than oxen.
Donkeys are a much lower-risk investment (40,000 CFA) and require very little vetrinary care.
Donkeys are fairly self-sufficient in their feeding habits, often grazing on any available shrub or plant, even during the dry season.
Donkeys are less sensitive to humidity changes, heat, and/or drought conditions than cattle.
Due to their low cost and lack of perceived social status in ownership, donkeys are often less likely to be stolen.
The plowing implements used with donkeys are lighter and less expensive, thereby offering a greater audience for purchase and utilization when compared to oxen.
When paired with a cart, donkeys offer a great means of transporting agricultural harvests (or people or other goods) from the fields to market in greater quantities, thereby increasing the availability of agricultural products in the Togolese marketplace.
Donkeys could be used in the transport of water. In the Sahel, particularly in the countries of Senegal, Mali, Burkina Faso, Niger, and Chad, donkey-powered pulley lifts are used to draw water from deep artisan wells.

Donkeys are already being used in cultivation and food production in parts of Africa by both women and men. There is not a significant reason why this agricultural (and transport) practice could not easily transition to Togo. Commercial and traditional blacksmiths could easily produce a slightly smaller plow or cultivator that could be directly adapted for use with Donkeys.

In the effort to increase food production in Togo through intensive agriculture, donkeys offer farmers of all ages and gender a way to transition from hand hoes to animal traction. Where one cannot afford or use oxen and oxen-drawn implements, there is always the donkey.

Article Reference: IFAD/FAO/Government of Japan, 1998, Agricultural Implements Used by Women Farmers in Africa, Rome.

The Big Move

2009-06-25T11:18:00.002Z

After 2 taxi trips, 4 moto trips and 1 oxen cart trip, Ann, Asher, and I have successfully moved into our new house in Pessaré-Confess. It is much more a house with 3 rooms (kitchen, living area, bedroom), an attached shower/latrine, and a small little alleyway that is kind of like our porch. It has a high metal roof (awesome for rain, bad for hot days) with whitewashed walls inside that we have since decorated (be on the lookout for pictures soon). The house is located inside a family compound and is much centrally located to the local boutique and market. We are excited for the renewed ability to integrate into the community and see lots of people all day!

On a sidenote, we neutered Asher last week and he is slowly recovering from this event. It is a bit more intense than the what most people are used to in the States: a clean razor, scissors, suture material, a plastic dropsheet, iodine, a rubber cord, and 4 men to hold the dog is all I am going to say. But once he heals, Asher will begin to be able to run free during the day and play with neighboring dogs, provided he remembers to come at night for food, love, and the occasional bath...

Work is slow for the moment as most residents of Pessaré are spending all their time in the fields planting, weeding, checking on rain damage, etc., but nonetheless my companion planted corn+peanuts are evolving well, as is my garden group. Ann and I are looking into creating a demonstration garden for young girls that act as an income generating activity for them as well as model different garden and tree nursury techniques to the greater Pessaré area. In addition I am trying to organize a mango tree grafting technical training in August at a nearby tree nursury for a group of 8-10 men from Pessaré's various villages...but that too is in the works. More importantly for time being are the visits by Brian and Miriah, and Sarah and Brad, as well as Ann and I's trip to Coco Beach for our 2 year wedding anniversary.

On a sad note, as Ann noted on her blog, our dear friend Meg is now stateside recovering from sickness, eating cheese, etc., but is no longer a PCV here in Togo. Meg you will be missed! Likewise, my good friend David has chosen to return from Niger, where he was serving as PCV and head to Boston... Have a few good beers and meals for me David!

Thats all for now, as Ann and I are just in for the day to hit the bank, eat cheeseburgers, drink Cokes, go food shopping, and email.

No Longer Newbies...

2009-06-05T10:21:00.004Z

Well its the beginning of the month and we are in Kara once again for some banking, email, fans, and cold beverages. In addition to beginning our 10th month in Togo, we are now no longer the "newbies" in country as a new training group of Peace Corps Volunteers (Community Health & Small Business) arrive this weekend, which also means the beginning of the departure of the seasoned volunteers as their time in Togo winds to a close... In a sense Peace Corps service is made up of a constant pattern of anxious hellos and sad goodbyes, all accompagnied by alot of sweat!

Ann and I just finished hosting our first visitor Brandon and she seemed to have a great experience (or so she told us!!!)... Our good friends Brian and Miriah are on their way in a few weeks, followed by Ann's sister Sarah and her Beau Brad!!! Sharing Togo with Americans is part of Peace Corps' overall raison d'etre and we are doing our part. Whose next to visit?

Work is going okay at the moment, just waiting on two demonstration fields and encouraging a garden group to expand their operations. I contributed two articles to the Peace Corps Togo publication Farm to Market, which encourages agri-business, small enterprise, and environmental protection. It is published four times a year and has articles in both French and English written by a diverse group of authors (PCVs, PC staff, Togolese farmers, businessmen/women, etc.). Coupled with my Farm to Market articles were two posters I made for a regional Food Security Conference that Peace Corps Togo held this week in Tové (just outside Kpalimé). PCvs, staff, and farmers from Ghana, Togo, Benin, Cameroon, and Guinea came to share ideas, come up with new action plans, etc... and my ideas/proposals concerning: (1) animal traction with donkeys and (2) the companion planting of corn and peanuts were presented at the conference.

As my wife hinted on her blog, we are changing houses and that has taken up a bit of my time as of late, checking up on masons and carpenters, etc... so hopefully in the next couple of weeks we will be all settled in our new house and a bit more at ease... so be on the lookout for new house photos soon!

Rumor has it that there are care packages on the way, and if you sent one.... thank you, thank you a million times over! That's it for now, I am off to hunt down an ice cold soda and a shaded lunch spot to pass the hottest part of the day until Ann & I head back to village this afternoon.

CONGRATS JAKE & LAURA!!!

2009-06-05T10:14:00.003Z

Yes, I am that excited...

Our good friends Jake and Laura (Jake was a PCV with me in the Republic of Guinea) tied the knot in Chicago a little over a week ago and I just wanted to wish them all the best in love, happiness, and adventure and say welcome to the club, well done! All of our hope, luck, prayers, and well wishes are with you as you begin your married life together. We miss you and will see you sometime soon, whether in Africa or America...

Garden Project

2009-05-23T09:01:00.007Z

One of my newest projects is working with a new group of men who have created a 1/2 acre cooperative garden with 5 members. The garden is located in Farokoka, a village in the foothills of Pessare. The total absence of any vegetable production in our area makes them well placed to succeed and expand next year. If anyone is interested in sending quantities of organic onion, tomato, hot pepper, radish, carrot, cabbage or lettuce seed, it would beyond helpful. After the harvest of okra (pictured below), they plan to double the size of their garden. Water is still an issue, they walk about 300 meters to a natural seep in the ground. If this progresses, I might have to get around to helping them try to organize a funded cement well project (any takers?!). The garden area itself used to be a fish farm/ mini-pond during the French colonial era, so the soil is very rich in comparison to surrounding fields. My good friend and Kabiye language tutor Albert is pictured below with Asher by the garden entrance.

Reforestation Awareness Campaign

2009-05-22T19:21:00.009Z

My work counterpart Kolou and I have been working dilligently with the six primary schools in greater Pessare (Confess, Tchade, Sonde, Pessare Pouh, Agbarada, Tchade Limde) to create an awareness of the need to reforest the area for both human and environmental reasons. Each school was a little different, but phase I has really been a 1 1/2 hour presentation, with a follow planting of several grafted mango trees. I have included pictures from our session at Sonde's primary school, where I am also teaching envirnmental education classes in a more formal setting and have a student-run tree nursery.

Nice Outfits

2009-05-22T19:09:00.008Z

About a month or so back, Pessare recieved a new priest for its parish and we were invited to attend the festivities. After a really long mass in French and Kabiye, we sat with many of the other invited guests and notables and ate, drank, and sweated, for this is Togo after all. Below are a few pictures of our nice outfits...

Scorpians

2009-05-22T18:56:00.006Z

If you have been keeping up with my wife's blog, she mentioned a little while back that I have been killing the various threatening critters that come into our house or nearby vicinity. At last count I am up to 16 Scorpions and 3 Cobras... Thank you Man vs Wild for showing me how! Here is the latest encounter for your amusement (the scorpion is about 4 inches long).

Before

After

Trouble Part I & II...

2009-05-22T18:50:00.004Z

Asher

Beepo (our neighbors' dog)

Asher...

2009-05-22T18:43:00.004Z

Our dog Asher is getting bigger by the day, just thought you might enjoy some of his unusual sleep habits...

daytime

nighttime

Sleeping...

2009-05-22T18:31:00.003Z

Though the rains make sleeping outside a bit of a risk (late night panic to get the stuff inside), it is by far more comfortable. The picture below is of my view when I wake in the morning (5:15 AM) to Asher's wimpering that he wants out of the mosquito net and taken on his morning walk to sniff everything within a half km of our house.

Rainy Season Begins... Almost

2009-05-22T18:21:00.006Z

Care Packages!!!

2009-05-21T17:53:00.001Z

Greetings all, back in Kara on my way to Lomé to pick up our friend Brandon who is coming to little ol' Togo for a whirlwind one week visit. Since email access in Lomé is by far better, I will post a whole bunch of pictures and a more thorough update.

But more important than all of that is a big thank you to my Mom and Dad, Jon and Melissa, my in-laws Sally and Andy, Sarah and Brad, Aunt Cecily and Uncle John, Rebecca and Sunmin (and Evelyn!, congrats), and the many more to come (hint hint). The care packages have really made mail day a great time au village. Thank you for all your love and support.

The Rains

2009-04-28T14:50:00.002Z

The end of April finds my wife and I once again in Kara for a little food shopping, banking, internet, and a night away from the village. Our amazing dog is staying with the neighbors while we are in Kara, he is, without a doubt, wreaking havoc in their concession with their dog and stealing snacks from the children!

Work has continued to develop... I am undertaking a reforestation campaign with one of my work counterparts with the students of all five elementary schools in our "canton" or cluster of eight villages(pictures to follow soon). Additionally, I have finally lined up some demonstration fields for the companion planting of corn and peanuts, which boost production; We'll see how that turns out in a few months.

As per the title of the post, the rains have begun to appear occasionally, but not consistently, making it now hot and humid in village. But everything is now beginning to be green and beautiful to look at. Ann and I are excited for our upcoming visitors: Brandon, Brian, and Miriah!!! Look for some great photos and jokes at their expense soon!

Thanks once again for all the letters and comments (Jojo + company), we miss you all and look forward to seeing you all here in Togo.

Sweaty...

2009-04-08T06:59:00.005Z

Well, March has come and gone and April finds me sweating out the
lovely days of hot season's final push. We had our "Mango Rains" and
everyday kids are off to some distant field to "acquire" buckets full
of the yellow gold...Our dog Asher is doing well, still getting bigger, but a bit of a wimp when it comes to going out to pee in the dark.

Work has been an up and down experience as of late:

We have lost a large portion of the rabbits at the center due to a small infection outbreak.
Built several new mudstoves
Met with two garden groups; one male and one female...I'm hoping to establish a positive and productive working relationship with both groups
Kabiye language lessons are still running over me like a bulldozer, but it does give me good excuse to drink Tchouk and laugh with Albert my teacher
I was named to VAC (Volunteer Advisory Committee), giving me the opportunity to represent my region of Togo in quarterly meetings with our Country Director and program directors. In classic Togo irony, I was made meeting secretary at the last meeting, yet we A. don't have a computer here B. don't have electricity but need to have typed notes out to everyone in a week!
Built solar dyers for fruit/veggies...will let you know how it goes!

My wife and I will be celebrating birthdays in a few days...my 4th
time getting older on the continent! Maybe as a big present, Mother
Nature will make it snow! I hope everyone is well in the States. Thanks for all the letters,
emails, phone calls, and care packages, all of which brightens us up
when we are having a tough day.

Current literary wish list: The Complete Works of John Muir

Ahh Kara

2009-03-04T08:42:00.002Z

Well Ann and I are in Kara for the night to hit up Ecobank, good food shopping, drink cold Cokes, and use the internet!!! It has been a while since I last posted and I have been au village building improved cookstoves, rabbit raising and perpertually searching for areas in one of the eight villages of Pessaré to create a large scale garden project with some motivated village residents... water and lack of non-rocky land are the biggest challenges, but hopefully something will finally come together. I head off to in-service training next week with a work counterpart from the village: Kolou, who rocks the village life like no other, bottomless enthusiasm to say the least.

The Fulani are passing through during their annual migration/wandering and it has been cool to see them and to speak a little Fulfulde with them (or what I remember from my time in Mali). We had a big pre-season rainstorm complete with hail a couple of weeks ago and now the Mango trees are getting ready to drop their fruit, which means solar dried mango... any takers?? It is hot season now and at are house the other day it was so hot in the sun (with radiant heat from the rocks) that it shorted out our digital thermometer...for real.

Well off to village again, look for another update in a couple of weeks, maybe with pics, for some new pics now, check out my wife's blog. Thank you to everyone for the care packages, emails, texts, phone calls, and letters and we hope to see you all in Togo soon!

Traditional Kabiye Leather Work

2009-01-19T11:56:00.004Z

In our local market there is a fine gentleman from a neighboring village that makes great leather pouches, wallets, and knifes by hand, all while smoking a neverending cigarette. If you are interested, please be in touch...

Dirtbag Marries Classy Girl, Heads to Togo

2009-01-19T11:48:00.002Z

Can you tell who is the Natural Resource Management Volunteer and who is the Girls Empowerment and Education Volunteer???

Village Gym

2009-01-18T12:36:00.003Z

So in the effort to stay in good shape, I have been running along the dirt roads and paths through the various fields that are part and parcel of the seven villages that make up where we live. I also created a little homemade pullup bar out of steel pipe and climbing rope in our hut shaped gazeebo-esque area. This may seem straight forward enough, but you also have to figure in constant nipping at the ankles by Asher and the 100 degree heat... Village Gym, now taking memberships.

Dog Bites = Rabies Shots

2009-01-18T10:16:00.003Z

Well I am in Lome after getting nipped by an unvaccinated puppy that was playing with Asher... nothing serious, just a small but deep puncture on my thumb (see below). Ann is holding down the fort in village until I get back. I have one more shot to go. Thanks everyone for all the great emails and packages...

Asher!

2009-01-18T09:45:00.009Z

Please welcome our new puppy Asher to the Duncan family!

Happy hour

Sleeping in the Laundry
Ann & Asher

New Bandana...

Bath time...

December 2008

2008-12-31T13:14:00.003Z

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Well one month down and a whole lot to go! December found my wife and I swearing in as volunteers at the US Ambassador's residence in Lomé, followed by a few days of banking, errands, and shopping before heading up to post. After a brief delay while the entire brake system of our bush taxi was replaced (ahh…Togo), we made it to site! While my wife kept busy at the C.E.G. (middle school) with the girls club and helping give midterm exams, I started right into a rabbit raising project at CAP-EJR (the center where we work and live). So my homologue and I went out to Masindedina to visit some Catholic monks there who had some rabbits for sale, which we are using to diversify our stocks. In addition to all this "work," much of the month was spent setting up our house, making arrangements to pick up our puppy in January, drinking tchouck (a local sorghum-based beer), going to the weekly markets in Siou and Pessare, eating with people, and just trying to get a basic feel for our hometown for the next 22 months. We also attended the inauguration of 3 chiefs in some of the villages that make up Pessare, Sinkaring (the annual Kabiye dance festival for the Binah prefecture), and Kamou (the dance that is accompanied by ceramic drums held at Christmas). We also celebrated Christmas in the village and had our host family over for dinner, cookies, and juice for the kids, box wine for the adults, and all followed by story-telling. I told the tale of Santa Claus – the kids loved the "naughty and nice lists!" Presently we are in Kara (hence internet) for New Years, banking, shopping, and a brief recharge before heading back to village!

Thanks to all my former students: Jojo, Margaret, Sammi, Amanda, Ross, Froio, Natalie, Grace, Lindsay, Madeline, and Pete for their great emails and phone calls. as well as a huge Thank You to my extended family for their great care packages, calls, and letters, I miss you all. Most importantly congrats to my best friend Brian on his recent engagement, can't to see you and Mariah in Togo this summer...

Field Trip!!!

2008-11-21T18:21:00.003Z

Well I am back in Kara again after a week long trip to Northern Togo... Animal traction, beekeeping, terrace farming, erosion control techniques, grilled meat, brushfires, beer, solar ovens, tchouktchouk, thouk-ba, and alot of time sweating in taxis... How does this compare to your cubicle? Only 2 weeks of training left before I am off to my village for two years! More to come soon...

OBAMA

2008-11-07T14:23:00.001Z

Obama, Obama, Obama...

Enough said, I can sleep peacefully now.

At Last...

2008-11-07T14:06:00.003Z

Well after several months of absence, I have finally connected to the greater electronic world here in Togo. Peace Corps life is going well, only a few more weeks of training left, and then it is off to the village (Péssaré-Confes, look at a map of Togo) with my lovely wife. I am presently in Kara, enjoying large town/city pleasures such as cold water, soda, a large market, electricity, and of course, the internet.

Our village is pretty amazing, tucked up in the mountains among the Kabiye and Losso peoples - no power, dirt paths, very spread out and agriculturally oriented. Our hut is located on the top of a small hill, with five huts (kitchen, storage, guest bedroom, our main hut, and a shade hanger), but don't get the idea that it is lap-o-luxe!!! My initial impression of everyone I've encountered has been positive. The soil is really rocky, with hundreds of Baobab trees scattered around, and the crops (corn, millet, sorghum, yams) planted everywhere. the Kabiye people seem to live very spread out(which is good for privacy, but can feel pretty isolated at the same time.

Ann and I are happy with our set-up, making plans for housegoods shopping after the end of training, probably getting a dog for company and security, and generally looking forward to living and working in the village. Thanks to Mom and Dad, as well as Ann's former co-worker Mark for th packages.... could use some letters from you all though.

More to come when I can post again.

Packing...

2008-09-08T17:34:00.002Z

With little more than a week to go until Togo (clever, huh?), I have started packing and getting all my forms, toiletries, clothes, books, and various other things together. The result is a chaotic pile in one room in my parents' house, which by my own promises and travel date will soon be resolved. Ann & I are getting set to say goodbye to more friends and family and then say hello to a whole bunch of new people and experiences... Stay tuned.

Summer Weddings...

2008-07-27T23:27:00.002Z

Are so much fun! As my better half had so ably described on her blog, we attended my cousin's wedding in Rhode Island in early June and this what it was like to be there!

More pertinent to this blog, only 50 days until Togo...

Summer...

2008-07-10T17:58:00.002Z

With the arrival of summer I have gotten lazy about the blog, even though if you look on the right side of this web page you'd notice that countdown to departure is ticking away...

Now that the academic year is over and I have bid my students farewell, I find myself once again in the folds of outdoor retail: Patagonia!!! Yesterday I managed to sneak out of the city and head up to the Wall in Hampton Beach, NH for some surf. After a morning filled with wetsuits, longboards and too much Dunkin Donuts coffee, we popped into Cinnamon Rainbows, one of the best surf shops around here, in order to drool over the boards and rationalize unnecessary purchases.

I have been reading (non-fiction, as per usual) Legacy of Ashes by Tim Weiner, which highlights the intricacies of U.S. foreign policy since WWII. Check it out if you want to see what thorough research actually can do...

At Last....

2008-05-11T14:03:00.003Z

Bear Grylls' new book came out just in time for me to squander any attempt at being productive by grading term papers as the school year comes to a close.

Go get your own copy and forget about household chores...

Togo Flag Patch

2008-05-09T16:30:00.004Z

Get your very own Togo patch here:

http://rastaheadwraps.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4_28&products_id=278

New Ambassador to Togo

2008-05-09T16:20:00.004Z

On Wednesday (5/7/08), the U.S. Senate Committee on Foreign Relations heard testimony and/or prepared statements from nominees for postings as Ambassadors in Africa. Senegal, Guinea-Bissau, Malawi, Togo, Ghana, Liberia, Zambia, Botswana, & Cape Verde are all slated to receive new Ambassadors. Patricia M. Hawkins is the nominee for Togo. Read her prepared statement here: http://foreign.senate.gov/testimony/2008/HawkinsTestimony080507a.pdf

Read the full AllAfrica.com article here: http://allafrica.com/stories/200805071184.html

A Word From Peace Corps

2008-05-09T14:46:00.005Z

Peace Corps recommended that the following letter be shared with family and friends:
Dear Families,
Greetings from the Togo Desk in Washington, D.C. It is with great pleasure that we welcome your family member to the Togo training program. Over the years we have received many questions from Volunteers and family members alike regarding travel plans, sending money, relaying messages and mail, etc. As we are unable to involve ourselves in the personal arrangements of Volunteers, we would like to offer you advice and assistance in advance by providing specific examples of situations and how we suggest they be handled.

1. Irregular Communication. (Please see #3 for the mailing address to Peace Corps' office in Lomé the capital of Togo). The mail service in Togo is not as efficient as the U.S. Postal Service. Thus, it is important to be patient. It can take from three to four weeks for mail coming from Togo to arrive in the United States via the Togolese mail system. From a Volunteer’s post, mail might take up to one to two months to reach the United States depending upon how far the Volunteer is from the capital city, Lomé. Sometimes mail is hand carried to the States by a traveler and mailed through the U.S. postal system. This leg of the trip can take another several weeks as it is also dependent on the frequency of travelers to the U.S.We suggest that in your first letters, you ask your Volunteer family member to give an estimate of how long it takes for him or her to receive your letters and then try to establish a predictable pattern of how often you will write to each other. Also try numbering your letters so that the Volunteer knows if he or she missed one. Postcards should be sent in envelopes--otherwise they may be found on the wall of the local post office.

Peace Corps Togo has established “The Lomé Limo” which runs up and down the country monthly, delivers mail, medical supplies, and sometimes volunteers or staff to central sites along the national road. Volunteers often enjoy telling their “war” stories when they write home. Letters might describe recent illnesses, lack of good food, isolation, etc. While the subject matter is often good reading material, it is often misinterpreted on the home front. Please do not assume that if your family member gets sick that he or she has not been attended to. The city of Lomé has medical and dental facilities, and there is a Peace Corps Medical Officer there as well. Most Volunteers can reach Lomé in less than one day’s time. Many Volunteers also have access to a telephone so that they can call our Medical Office. In the event of a serious illness the Volunteer is sent to Lomé and is cared for by our Medical Unit. If the Volunteer requires medical care that is not available in Togo, he/she will be medically evacuated to South Africa or to the United States. Fortunately, such circumstances are very rare.If for some reason your communication pattern is broken and you do not hear from your family member for at least one month, you should contact the Office of Special Services (OSS) at Peace Corps in Washington at 1-800-424-8580, extension 1470 (or direct: 202-692-1470). The OSS will then call the Peace Corps Director in Lomé, and ask her to check up on the Volunteer. Also, in the case of an emergency at home (death in the family, sudden illness, etc.), please do not hesitate to call OSS immediately, so that the Volunteer can be informed by a member of Peace Corps/Togo staff.

2. Telephone Calls. The telephone system in Togo has fairly reliable service to the United States. In the interior of the country, where most of our Volunteers are located, the system is less reliable. Most Volunteers have access to a telephone in or nearby their site. When dialing direct to Togo from the U.S., dial 011 (the international access code) + 228 (the country code) + the number. Volunteers generally set up phone calls with people in the U.S. in advance, and have the distant party call them, which is much less expensive than calling the U.S. from Togo. Many volunteers decide to purchase cellphones once they arrive in Togo, but they may not always have regular reception at their site.The Togo Desk in Washington, D.C. usually calls the Peace Corps office in Lomé at least once a week. However, these calls are reserved for business only and we cannot relay personal messages over the phone. If you have an urgent message, however, and have exhausted your other means (regarding travel plans, etc.), you can call the Desk, and the message will be relayed.

3. Sending Packages. Parents and Volunteers like to send and receive care packages through the mail. Unfortunately, sending packages can be a frustrating experience for all involved due the high incidence of theft and heavy customs taxes. You may want to send inexpensive items through the mail, but there is no guarantee that these items will arrive. We do not recommend, however, that costly items be sent through the mail. Even though many Volunteers sometimes choose to get local post office boxes, you may always use the following address to send letters and/or packages to your family member:

Nathaniel Duncan, PCV

Corps de la Paix

B.P. 3194

Lomé, Togo

West Africa

It is recommended that packages be sent in padded envelopes if possible, as boxes tend to be taxed more frequently. Packages can be sent via surface mail (2-3 weeks arrival time) or by ship (4-6 months). The difference in cost can be a factor in deciding which method to utilize. For lightweight but important items (e.g. airline tickets), DHL (an express mail service) does operate in Lomé, but costs are very expensive. If you choose to send items through DHL, you must address the package to the Country Director, s/c Corps de la Paix, 48 Rue de Rossignols, Quartier Kodjoviakopé, Lomé, Togo. The telephone number for the Peace Corps office in Togo is (228) 221-0614, should DHL need this information. If you send the item to the Country Director, no liability can be assumed. For more information about DHL, please call their toll free number, 1-800-CALL-DHL, or visit their web site at http://www.dhl.com/. Please be aware that there is a customs fee for all DHL packages sent to Volunteers. For each DHL package, the Volunteer will be taxed 10,000 CFA (roughly US$20).
Sending airplane tickets and/or cash is not recommended. Certain airlines will allow you to buy a prepaid ticket in the States; they will telex their Lomé office to have the ticket ready. Unfortunately, this system is not always reliable. Many airlines (e.g., KLM, Air France, Ghana Airways, Air Togo) fly into Lomé or Accra, but each has its own policy on pre-paid tickets. Please call the airline of your choice for more information. You could also send tickets via DHL as mentioned previously. However, Peace Corps will assume no liability in the event of a lost/stolen airline ticket.Trying to send cash or airline tickets is very risky and is discouraged. If your Volunteer family member requests money from you, it is his/her responsibility to arrange receipt of it. Some Volunteers use Western Union, which has an office in Lomé. Volunteers will also be aware of people visiting the States and can request that they call his/her family when they arrive in the States should airline tickets need to be sent back to Togo.

4. E-mail. There is fairly reliable e-mail service in Togo with cyber cafes in most large towns. Connections can be very slow and time consuming as well as costly. E-mail, however, may become the preferred method of communication between you and your family member in Togo. Not all Volunteers have access to e-mail on a daily basis but they should be able to read and send messages at least once a month. As with other means of communication, do not be alarmed if you do not receive daily or weekly messages. Unless in Lomé at the office, Volunteers have to pay for internet time at cyber cafes and this can be a slow or expensive process depending on the connection at the café.

We hope this information is helpful to you during the time your family member is serving asa Peace Corps Volunteer in Togo. We understand how frustrating it is to communicate with your family member overseas and we appreciate your using this information as a guideline. Please feel free to contact us at the Togo Desk in Washington, DC, if you have further questions. Our phone number is (800) 424-8580, ext. 2326/2307, or locally at (202) 692-2326/2307.
Sincerely, Jennifer Brown, Country Desk Officer
Ryan Derni, Country Desk Assistant

Connect, Connect

2008-04-16T14:10:00.006Z

From 2002-2004 I served as a Peace Corps Agro-Forestry Volunteer in the Republic of Guinea (#9 on Failed States Index!!!) in the little village of Tiguibiri on the banks of the Niger River. I had a life expanding experience filled with happiness and frustrations (much like what I expect my time in Togo will be), characterized by some intensely powerful friendships with amazing individuals. Well amazingly enough, after Peace Corps evacuted Guinea in 2007 due to political unrest, the program was reinstated and someone was assigned to my old village. Check out Ciara's blog here: http://iwannabeafripino.blogspot.com/

Academic Thoughts on Togo

2008-04-16T13:50:00.008Z

When scouring the Internet for information on the Republic of Togo, one usually comes up a bit empty handed, even when searching francophone sources...unless you count football scores and announcements of state visits from dignitaries. I guess no news could be an indicator that a state is either doing well (or on the verge of something)... Togo came in at #46 on the 2007 Failed States Index. See the full Foreign Policy article here: http://www.foreignpolicy.com/story/cms.php?story_id=3865

Feeling Old...

2008-04-15T01:09:00.007Z

Today is tax day for America... and by default for a little more than three decades, my birthday. For dinner my better half cooked a delicious spread of organic homemade black bean burgers with fresh avocado, onion, & tomatoes. My in-laws (with clever, covert assistance from my wife) managed to track down an official Togo national soccer team t-shirt!! Amazing!

To Begin...

2008-02-29T21:37:00.006Z

Starting is always difficult, for everyone always expects some form of witty introduction and preview of what to expect. My wife & I are leaving in September to serve in the Peace Corps in Togo, myself as a Natural Resource Management Volunteer (NRM) and my wife as a Girls Education & Empowerment Volunteer (GEE).

To get the most out of this blog, there are several steps one should take to fully understand both the content and the author himself.

Find Togo on a map (No seriously)
Only read the postings when you are really tired or had a few too many, as this will increase ten-fold, the humor that I will try to inject into my postings.
Take everything with a grain of salt (some stories may have gotten away from me).
Remember that the author has already served in the Peace Corps in the Republics of Mali & Guinea and already has had too much tropical sunlight & anti-malarial medications for his own good.
Read up on Togolese history, politics, and culture (or at least the parts that you find interesting, for it will help you make sense out of the references contained in the various forthcoming postings!).